Saturday, December 1, 2012

Cajas National Park

Yesterday, I was rather overwhelmed by the city of Cuenca with it's narrow streets, intense traffic and noise.   I could see mountains at the end of narrow streets but not get any real sense of the setting.   So we decided to go to Cajas National Park about 45 minutes southwest of Cuenca today.   We got to the bus terminal and went around in circles for awhile with cranky folks telling us, go here, go there, through that gate, no, that one!   Finally on the right bus we wound steadily uphill through the mountains, looking back at Cuenca which was lovely from above.   After about 45 minutes, the driver pulled off at a parking lot and let us out a good distance from the park entrance and ranger station.   We got to the ranger station only to learn that our destination, Lake of the Torreadores was 6km further along the road but no worries, the ranger drove us to the lake.

Incredible, simply breathtaking both as a view and for lungs accustomed to sea level altitudes.   The mountains rise in all directions from a high altitude grassland also referred to as moors or in Spanish, paramo.   We set off hiking a rocky path above the lake with Phyllis taking a slower, shorter route and me following Helen who I have dubbed the mountain goat because she scrambles over any terrain with ease.   The landscape is dotted with tiny jewels of lakes.   We saw fish jumping in the lakes.   We stopped often to admire and photograph TINY wildflowers and succulents.  After a time of walking the clouds were gathering and we could see rain in the distance.   As we were WAY above treeline, Helen and I started back after sitting a moment on a rock and singing.   I found I was huffing and puffing, Helen was a bit dizzy and we moved slowly at 13,000 feet.   We wanted to get back before the storm as thunder and lightening were likely and we were a long way above treeline, maybe several miles.

We arrived back at the ranger station just moments before rain, hail, thunder and lightening hit.   The area near the ranger station had some beautiful trees with shaggy red/brown bark which the ranger said were quinoa trees or paper bark trees.  Phyllis was waiting in the adjacent restuarant so we ordered hot drinks, grilled trout and potatoes for a meal to enjoy while hail slid down the windows.

Then we walked to a small open bus shelter by the road to flag down a passing bus.   Fairly promptly a pick-up with a back seat stopped and offered us a ride.   A moment's scrutiny gave me the information that the guy looked amiable and hadn't been drinking so we hopped in and went with him to Cuenca.   He looked at us and quickly turned on the heat!  We were most grateful for the ride even if he did cross himself before passing on blind curves.   Asi es la vida en el sur de america.   Hopefully my son is not following this blog...

Back in Cuenca, we took naps and walked to a Colombian restaurant for thick corn tortillas called arepas covered with beans, meat and cheese.   Delicious.    

Six word story for the day.  Bus, mountains, lakes, breathtaking, storm, thrilling.

Sara

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