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| Rio Tomebamba |
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| Helen with Charlie Fox, who now lives in Cuenca |
Friday, November 30, 2012
First Morning in Cuenca
Charlie Fox, good friend of the Findley family, met us at a the Cafe San Sebas this morning! After a most enjoyable time with Charlie and his friend, Rich, we strolled through the museum of modern art and along the banks of a river into the heart of this beautiful city.
Thursday, November 29, 2012
On the bus again
Sara here, writing from a lovely hostel in Cuenca
Our day started getting to a cooperativa to catch the bus to Cuenca. There was a bustle around the bus door getting on and the young woman in front of me suddenly turned and got back off the bus jostling me when she did so. You guessed it, when I sat down, I discovered my little kangaroo pack unzipped, my coin purse missing. I only lost about $5 plus a copy of my passport but just behind where it had been, my cell phone sat intact. It was the only time in days I haven't had my vest zipped over my kangaroo. Grateful for the small loss and the reminder to wake up at bus stations and around the airport.
Then miles and miles of incredibly beautiful mountains, farms and terraced hillside. Just wonderful. No loud music, silly slapstick movie. Many quick stops to let on kids going home from distant schools, indigenous women in bright velvet skirts. Stop at a unisex bathroom where the men were using the urinal by the wash basin while I walked by to go into a stall.
For a while we were charmed by the clouds over the mountains, then clouds under us while we were above them. Then not charmed by driving for several hours through thick fog. We were in the first seats which help Phyllis with motion sickness but also meant that I got to see through the front window and watch the driver pass old rickety trucks in dense fog on blind curves. I made a decision years ago not to sweat this stuff so I listened to good music and we arrived in Cuenca. A new adventure.
Six word story. Robber, mountains, clouds, green, safe arrival.
Phyllis' note
Bus stop in a little town south of Riobamba. Two women, both in big red skirts, full and wide, with magenta shawls, finely featured chestnut faces, black bowler hats. Beautiful.
Our day started getting to a cooperativa to catch the bus to Cuenca. There was a bustle around the bus door getting on and the young woman in front of me suddenly turned and got back off the bus jostling me when she did so. You guessed it, when I sat down, I discovered my little kangaroo pack unzipped, my coin purse missing. I only lost about $5 plus a copy of my passport but just behind where it had been, my cell phone sat intact. It was the only time in days I haven't had my vest zipped over my kangaroo. Grateful for the small loss and the reminder to wake up at bus stations and around the airport.
Then miles and miles of incredibly beautiful mountains, farms and terraced hillside. Just wonderful. No loud music, silly slapstick movie. Many quick stops to let on kids going home from distant schools, indigenous women in bright velvet skirts. Stop at a unisex bathroom where the men were using the urinal by the wash basin while I walked by to go into a stall.
For a while we were charmed by the clouds over the mountains, then clouds under us while we were above them. Then not charmed by driving for several hours through thick fog. We were in the first seats which help Phyllis with motion sickness but also meant that I got to see through the front window and watch the driver pass old rickety trucks in dense fog on blind curves. I made a decision years ago not to sweat this stuff so I listened to good music and we arrived in Cuenca. A new adventure.
Six word story. Robber, mountains, clouds, green, safe arrival.
Phyllis' note
Bus stop in a little town south of Riobamba. Two women, both in big red skirts, full and wide, with magenta shawls, finely featured chestnut faces, black bowler hats. Beautiful.
Baños
Sara's note:
In 2004 I had the privilege of working with Veronica Vega when Access Community Health Center opened a new dental clinic. Veronica and I stayed in touch when I retired. As I was getting ready for this trip, I asked about visiting her mother, Delia, in Baños. This was the precedent to a day that was totally a gift from a most hospitable family.
Phyllis' note:
Wednesday -- We took a bus to Baños today. Baños is on the road to Puyo and is considered the Gateway to the Amazon. The hour-long bus ride gave us a phenomenal view of the lush green mountains and of the volcano Tungurahua, which emerged briefly from its cloud cover just for us. The cost of this phenomenal ride? 80 cents each!
Tungurahua erupted five years ago and is still active; we were surprised to learn that Peace Corps places Baños off limits for the volunteers; they're not even allowed to visit the town because of the possibility that Tungurahua might blow again.
If it weren't for the tourists, one might say that Baños is paradise. The temperature is short-sleeve-perfect, a blessed breeze wafts through the lanes, the vistas of green mountains hover beyond every house and shop. People come here to ride bikes and to enjoy the hot springs. Outfitters abound, ready to set you up with wet suits -- we can't imagine for what -- or bikes or a jungle tour.
We came here to visit the family of a former co-worker of Sara's, Veronica Vega, who lives in Madison, WI. Veronica's mother and brother still live in Baños, and they rolled out the red carpet for us.
Breakfast! And then a trip to a waterfall, complete with hair-raising cable-car ride. Helen and Sara stepped into the cable car, together with our host, Julio Vega. Off they went, careening over a deep ravine with a river far below. Teenagers chose to take a parallel route on a "Canopy", flying like solo birds on a cable above the river. Gives me shivers.
And then a drive through several mountain tunnels to the beginning of a long hike up to another waterfall. Such exquisite beauty!
Back at the house of Veronica's brother, Julio, an architect, we were treated to a sumptuous chicken dinner, after which we all went into town to check out Julio's office, the ruins of the church that fell in the earthquake of 1949, and the lovely park in the center of town. Julio pointed out a bar owned by a guy from Chicago, so of course I had to cross the street to say hello to to my homie, an old hippie with a gray beard and pony tail. We chatted about Wicker Park and Logan Square but I never did ask him why, in this lovely Ecuadorian town, he named his bar "The Stray Dog."
We capped off the day with a drive to a lookout point from which we could see the whole town of Banos far below. The school band was practicing and the sounds of the drummers drifted up to our high perch. It was a great day, our last one in this area of Ecuador. We are deeply grateful to the Vega family for their warmth and generosity. Julio was wonderful, giving us not only his entire day, but his marvelous singing! Prompted by our singing of two Granny songs, Julio sang several songs of his own making, including one about the tres abuelas who had come to visit his family in Banos!
Tomorrow -- an 8-hour bus ride to Cuenca!
In 2004 I had the privilege of working with Veronica Vega when Access Community Health Center opened a new dental clinic. Veronica and I stayed in touch when I retired. As I was getting ready for this trip, I asked about visiting her mother, Delia, in Baños. This was the precedent to a day that was totally a gift from a most hospitable family.
Phyllis' note:
Wednesday -- We took a bus to Baños today. Baños is on the road to Puyo and is considered the Gateway to the Amazon. The hour-long bus ride gave us a phenomenal view of the lush green mountains and of the volcano Tungurahua, which emerged briefly from its cloud cover just for us. The cost of this phenomenal ride? 80 cents each!
Tungurahua erupted five years ago and is still active; we were surprised to learn that Peace Corps places Baños off limits for the volunteers; they're not even allowed to visit the town because of the possibility that Tungurahua might blow again.
If it weren't for the tourists, one might say that Baños is paradise. The temperature is short-sleeve-perfect, a blessed breeze wafts through the lanes, the vistas of green mountains hover beyond every house and shop. People come here to ride bikes and to enjoy the hot springs. Outfitters abound, ready to set you up with wet suits -- we can't imagine for what -- or bikes or a jungle tour.
We came here to visit the family of a former co-worker of Sara's, Veronica Vega, who lives in Madison, WI. Veronica's mother and brother still live in Baños, and they rolled out the red carpet for us.
Breakfast! And then a trip to a waterfall, complete with hair-raising cable-car ride. Helen and Sara stepped into the cable car, together with our host, Julio Vega. Off they went, careening over a deep ravine with a river far below. Teenagers chose to take a parallel route on a "Canopy", flying like solo birds on a cable above the river. Gives me shivers.
And then a drive through several mountain tunnels to the beginning of a long hike up to another waterfall. Such exquisite beauty!
Back at the house of Veronica's brother, Julio, an architect, we were treated to a sumptuous chicken dinner, after which we all went into town to check out Julio's office, the ruins of the church that fell in the earthquake of 1949, and the lovely park in the center of town. Julio pointed out a bar owned by a guy from Chicago, so of course I had to cross the street to say hello to to my homie, an old hippie with a gray beard and pony tail. We chatted about Wicker Park and Logan Square but I never did ask him why, in this lovely Ecuadorian town, he named his bar "The Stray Dog."
We capped off the day with a drive to a lookout point from which we could see the whole town of Banos far below. The school band was practicing and the sounds of the drummers drifted up to our high perch. It was a great day, our last one in this area of Ecuador. We are deeply grateful to the Vega family for their warmth and generosity. Julio was wonderful, giving us not only his entire day, but his marvelous singing! Prompted by our singing of two Granny songs, Julio sang several songs of his own making, including one about the tres abuelas who had come to visit his family in Banos!
Tomorrow -- an 8-hour bus ride to Cuenca!
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| Veronica's nephew, Wagner, in front of his father's office window |
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| Julio's lovely wife, Nely, who served us a phenomenal chicken dinner. She planted the bouganvilla five years ago. |
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| Sara on the swinging bridge over a river near the waterfalls |
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| Julio, Helen and Sara looking out over Baños |
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| Phyllis, Sara and Helen far above Baños |
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| Baños from the lookout perch |
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| Julio, Sara and Helen about to sail off above the ravine |
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| Sara and Helen at the waterfall |
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| A very happy Sara! |
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| Veronica's niece, Nicole, with Helen's reflection |
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| Julio, Nely, Helen, Sara, and Delia Silva |
Birthday Dinner at La Roka Plaza
Tuesday night -- Fabulous dinner at the hotel raises the bar to staggering new heights. There are more photos in other cameras, and a wee movie, too, of Helen's steak being set aflame. Great fun set in elegance and warmed by friendship. I end this day knowing that I am, on several planes, a most fortunate woman.
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Lunch with Rachael Bowers-Sword
Today we had pizza with Rachael Bowers-Sword, Peace Corps Volunteer here in Ambato and daughter of Helen´s friend in Madison, Sally Bowers. Two returned Peace Corps Volunteers and one very busy current volunteer! It was such fun to talk with her and hear all about her activities, her life here and her perspective on Ambato. Enjoy the photos. We enjoyed good wood-fired oven pizza!
The Gift of Seven Roses
Sara and Helen went out for a "walk" this morning. When they came back, they slipped a bouquet of roses to the waiter who brought them to our table as we were sipping our coffee. Wow! Seven roses -- red, pink, yellow, violet, white tinged with red -- they dazzled like fireworks, one for each decade. What a way to begin a very fine day. (See photo below. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to move the photo over here to this text! All the photos here are in totally goofy order.)
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| The Mother of Creation |
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| Helen Findley with Rachel Bowers-Sword at Restaurante La Fornace |
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| Just a few of the fabulous stained glass windows inside the cathedral |
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| Rachel, Ace Peace Corps Volunteer in Ambato |
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| The famous cathedral in Ambato, built on the site of the old cathedral which was destroyed in 1949. We found the inside to be very beautiful, with exquisite carvings of the stations of the cross and lovely stained glass windows, very tastefully done, in contrast to the garish display of Spanish gold we've seen elsewhere. |
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 Ha Ha! We took Rachel to lunch at a great pizza place, La Fornace. Somebody told the waiter it was my birthday. Before the pizza arrived, strains of "Happy Birthday" came over the music system and the waiter delivered this gorgeous piece of tiramisu to my place at the table. This was a first! Dessert before pizza! (Truth is, we had stopped for ice cream before lunch. When you're 70, you can do anything you want on your birthday! Especially if you're with Sara and Helen! |
Phyllis turns 70 today in Ambato
Helen and I got up early and found our way to the calle de flores where we purchased 7 roses, one for each decade. At breakfast in our luxurious hotel, they brought the roses to the table.
Now we are wandering the city, meeting Rachael a Peace Corps volunteer for lunch, going to museums and a magnificant cathedral (that would not make Jesus puke...) rebuilt after destruction in an earthquake. We have twice attempted to go to a botanical garden finally learning that it is closed Monday and Tuesday. Headed for ice cream midmorning.
Las Abuelas are enjoying the day.
Sara
Now we are wandering the city, meeting Rachael a Peace Corps volunteer for lunch, going to museums and a magnificant cathedral (that would not make Jesus puke...) rebuilt after destruction in an earthquake. We have twice attempted to go to a botanical garden finally learning that it is closed Monday and Tuesday. Headed for ice cream midmorning.
Las Abuelas are enjoying the day.
Sara
Monday, November 26, 2012
Serendipitous Adventure
Monday, November 26
This morning we woke up after a wonderful sleep in our quiet room. In contrast to Otavalo, there had been no barking "roof " dogs, no singing from nearby churches, no loud parties , no honking horns, just the soft sound of rain on the roof and pigeons. Breakfast in the garden room was a delight, served by Louis Ramon, our friendly man of the hotel. He delivered blackberry juice for Sara and me, orange juice for Phyllis, followed by eggs of our choice, wonderful coffee, and tiny rolls hot from the oven. We left the table with full tummies and ready for adventure.
After some advice from the hotel receptionist, we set out in a taxi for the botanical gardens only to find that they weren´t open on Mondays. Disappointed, we deliberated on what to do next,only realize that we were at the gates of the quinta (mansion) of Juan Leon Mera, who was not only the owner of the beautiful house and gardens, but was the writer, 140 years ago, of the Ecuadorian national anthem. Today was the celebration of that event! We had seen evidence of a procession forming, and we decided to enter the grounds and see what might happen next. Phyllis has posted pictures from the event, so you can get an idea of what it was like. Students from several schools (we gathered by their uniforms) filed in to fill the seats facing a podium and a portrait of Juan Mera. A band of adults took their place behind us, and the procession began. A gold plaque was formally carried in and placed on a stand in front of us. A bugle played, not taps, but an unfamiliar tune, and tll sang the national anthem. A uniformed student band, led by a drum major marched in followed by high school girls in very short and sexy uniforms and high heels. We couldn´t believe the provocative way they sashayed in! Somewhere in the procession a color guard came in, and then young men in gold helmets with spikes on top carrying ancient rifles with sabers. An older group of soldiers completed the parade. We stayed for a couple of speeches, and sneaked out, admiring a group of preschoolers who had been brought to observe the ocasion. They were so cute and were the best part of the event for us. What a serendipitous adventure!
This morning we woke up after a wonderful sleep in our quiet room. In contrast to Otavalo, there had been no barking "roof " dogs, no singing from nearby churches, no loud parties , no honking horns, just the soft sound of rain on the roof and pigeons. Breakfast in the garden room was a delight, served by Louis Ramon, our friendly man of the hotel. He delivered blackberry juice for Sara and me, orange juice for Phyllis, followed by eggs of our choice, wonderful coffee, and tiny rolls hot from the oven. We left the table with full tummies and ready for adventure.
After some advice from the hotel receptionist, we set out in a taxi for the botanical gardens only to find that they weren´t open on Mondays. Disappointed, we deliberated on what to do next,only realize that we were at the gates of the quinta (mansion) of Juan Leon Mera, who was not only the owner of the beautiful house and gardens, but was the writer, 140 years ago, of the Ecuadorian national anthem. Today was the celebration of that event! We had seen evidence of a procession forming, and we decided to enter the grounds and see what might happen next. Phyllis has posted pictures from the event, so you can get an idea of what it was like. Students from several schools (we gathered by their uniforms) filed in to fill the seats facing a podium and a portrait of Juan Mera. A band of adults took their place behind us, and the procession began. A gold plaque was formally carried in and placed on a stand in front of us. A bugle played, not taps, but an unfamiliar tune, and tll sang the national anthem. A uniformed student band, led by a drum major marched in followed by high school girls in very short and sexy uniforms and high heels. We couldn´t believe the provocative way they sashayed in! Somewhere in the procession a color guard came in, and then young men in gold helmets with spikes on top carrying ancient rifles with sabers. An older group of soldiers completed the parade. We stayed for a couple of speeches, and sneaked out, admiring a group of preschoolers who had been brought to observe the ocasion. They were so cute and were the best part of the event for us. What a serendipitous adventure!
Salasaca
Before leaving for Ecuador, I met with Lisa Benitez in Madison to learn more about her work with an indigenous community of weavers in Salasaca, about 15 minutes from Ambato. Lisa is an ESL teacher at Hawthorne elementary school in Madison. She's been working to support this community for about 10 years as they established a school that meets their specific needs. You can learn more about the Ecuadoran foundation of which this school is a part by connecting with this website.
http://www.rhumywaraecuador.org/rhumywaraecuador.org/Welcome.html
You can view photos from this day on Phyllis' post for the day.
This community does not have any clinic or local health care but is sending one of their young men through medical school and has the foundation built for a clinic. Lisa has been fundraising for them for some time. So I left Madison with the intention of visiting, bringing greetings from Lisa and understanding their situation better.
We took the fast (and cheap) tourist way to Salasaca going by cab for $5. Along the way the cab driver pointed out the volcano Tungurahua which is still active "lit up like a candle at night" but at that time covered in clouds. I had called ahead to one of the contacts Lisa had given me, Santos Moreta who had about an hour's notice that we were coming. We arrived at the center of the town of Salasaca where the women weavers were spinning and selling their wares. They sent us up the road a ways to find Santos. We went into a pet food store and were sent down the hill again at which time I called him. He met us in his pick-up with his ?brother, ?cousin, Nacho Moreta and drove us to the school where we met the surprised teachers. What transpired next was a true treasure of an experience.
We spent time in with the primary school teacher, Martha who showed around her classroom. They are well supplied with materials in large part because Lisa comes almost every year with her famous red suitcase packed full for the school. The children are taught in Kichwa (also called Quichua) and Spanish. The children were eager to show us language cards with photos of an object and words in both languages.
While Phyllis talked with Martha, I talked with Diocelina the preschool teacher about the absence of prenatal care for the women who deliver either with a local midwife or in Ambato. Then we walked to the totally lovely preschool where Diocelina teaches the 3-4 year olds. Well by now we were smitten with both children and teachers. Diocelina and I walked with a little 3 year old girl with a severely crossed eye. I explained treatment of lazy eye and asked if she could talk to the parents. She also wanted me to look at a burn on the girl's thigh but the child was quite frightened of me and she said the burn which happened when the child feel into the wood fire was healing well.
The preschoolers were working on a project quietly with great focus. Including a couple of twins one of whom was reputed to be the really energetic, distractable kid in the class. One particular child totally stole Phyllis and Helen's hearts as she was a tiny 3 year old carefully doing her work at a special small table to fit her size, showing her work to the teacher and putting her materials away. Some of the children's dogs come to school with them and wander in and out. The preschool has about 7-8 students, insufficient for the state system to pay the teacher who is supported by Lisa's fundraising efforts.
The teachers explained that in the regular schools they use corporal punishment while the philosophy of this school is to teach each unique child without beating them. The children sang two songs to us and we 3 Raging Grannies sang to them in Spanish. They loved our singing!
Then having interrupted their day sufficiently, we walked back to the center of Salasaca with Diocelina passing small homes and farms along the way. We caught a very crowded bus back to Ambato with the bus driver putting Helen in the seat beside him and a schoolgirl offering Phyllis her seat. I sat on a cushion on the floor with the schoolgirl who told me where we should get off and which bus to catch next. On the next bus I sat by a woman crocheting and struck up a conversation. She was the 2nd person of the day surprised that we were traveling around without a guide. She also helped me figure out where to get off.
Six word story for the day. Beautiful children, committed teachers, rich experience.
http://www.rhumywaraecuador.org/rhumywaraecuador.org/Welcome.html
You can view photos from this day on Phyllis' post for the day.
This community does not have any clinic or local health care but is sending one of their young men through medical school and has the foundation built for a clinic. Lisa has been fundraising for them for some time. So I left Madison with the intention of visiting, bringing greetings from Lisa and understanding their situation better.
We took the fast (and cheap) tourist way to Salasaca going by cab for $5. Along the way the cab driver pointed out the volcano Tungurahua which is still active "lit up like a candle at night" but at that time covered in clouds. I had called ahead to one of the contacts Lisa had given me, Santos Moreta who had about an hour's notice that we were coming. We arrived at the center of the town of Salasaca where the women weavers were spinning and selling their wares. They sent us up the road a ways to find Santos. We went into a pet food store and were sent down the hill again at which time I called him. He met us in his pick-up with his ?brother, ?cousin, Nacho Moreta and drove us to the school where we met the surprised teachers. What transpired next was a true treasure of an experience.
We spent time in with the primary school teacher, Martha who showed around her classroom. They are well supplied with materials in large part because Lisa comes almost every year with her famous red suitcase packed full for the school. The children are taught in Kichwa (also called Quichua) and Spanish. The children were eager to show us language cards with photos of an object and words in both languages.
While Phyllis talked with Martha, I talked with Diocelina the preschool teacher about the absence of prenatal care for the women who deliver either with a local midwife or in Ambato. Then we walked to the totally lovely preschool where Diocelina teaches the 3-4 year olds. Well by now we were smitten with both children and teachers. Diocelina and I walked with a little 3 year old girl with a severely crossed eye. I explained treatment of lazy eye and asked if she could talk to the parents. She also wanted me to look at a burn on the girl's thigh but the child was quite frightened of me and she said the burn which happened when the child feel into the wood fire was healing well.
The preschoolers were working on a project quietly with great focus. Including a couple of twins one of whom was reputed to be the really energetic, distractable kid in the class. One particular child totally stole Phyllis and Helen's hearts as she was a tiny 3 year old carefully doing her work at a special small table to fit her size, showing her work to the teacher and putting her materials away. Some of the children's dogs come to school with them and wander in and out. The preschool has about 7-8 students, insufficient for the state system to pay the teacher who is supported by Lisa's fundraising efforts.
The teachers explained that in the regular schools they use corporal punishment while the philosophy of this school is to teach each unique child without beating them. The children sang two songs to us and we 3 Raging Grannies sang to them in Spanish. They loved our singing!
Then having interrupted their day sufficiently, we walked back to the center of Salasaca with Diocelina passing small homes and farms along the way. We caught a very crowded bus back to Ambato with the bus driver putting Helen in the seat beside him and a schoolgirl offering Phyllis her seat. I sat on a cushion on the floor with the schoolgirl who told me where we should get off and which bus to catch next. On the next bus I sat by a woman crocheting and struck up a conversation. She was the 2nd person of the day surprised that we were traveling around without a guide. She also helped me figure out where to get off.
Six word story for the day. Beautiful children, committed teachers, rich experience.
Photos from Nov 26
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| In the preschool Inti Ñan |
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| A mom and two teachers with the kids in the preschool |
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| It's Kichua here, not Quichua. |
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| Mary, this one's for you. Sorry about the rear view! |
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| Student hard at work in the primary school, Inti Ñan |
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| Teacher Dioscelina helping a student in the preschool |
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| Note the boy's traditional attire -- white pants, white shirt, black poncho -- the beauty of Salasaca. |
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| Sara and Helen with a teacher in the primary school. |
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| At the Quinta (mansion) of Juan Leon Mera, author of Ecuador's National Anthem, at the event commemorating the 140th anniversary of the anthem |
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| White vinyl backpacks at ease during the speeches; mini mini mini skirts on the pom pom girls facing the audience |
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| This beautiful child captured my heart today. Her name is Monica, and she's 3 years old. |
Our Wonderful Otavalan Hosts
It´s hard to believe it was just yesterday that we said goodbye to Carmen and Carlos in Otavalo. They were most gracious hosts, incredibly generous, trusting us with their home, showing us the very finest of the Otavalan surroundings, even sending us off with a deluxe breakfast. We are deeply grateful.
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| Carmen and Carlos |
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| Sara with Carmen and Carlos |
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| Carmen Chuquin and Carlos Ponce |
Saturday in and around Otavalo
Life is moving along so much faster than this blog! Helen wrote about the marvelous hot springs at Chachimbiro (Friday) but somehow the post disappeared. Maybe there's a way to retrieve it; I sure hope so!
On the way back to Otavalo from Chachimbiro, Carlos treated us to ice cream in Ibarra and Helen got to try whirling some blackberry sorbet in a copper tub!
I wanted so much to show you the people, the Quichua people in their beautiful garb, some of the older women so tiny they would make my cousin, Millie, look tall. But they usually hate having their picture taken and often refuse when we ask permission. And those big European tourists with giant cameras dangling from their necks... Were they planning to ask permission when they entered the market?
The remainder of the day brought surprise after surprise. Carlos and Carmen drove us back up to Ibarra --thirty minutes each way -- so we could buy our bus tickets to Ambato. On the way back they took a back road through sweet indigenous villages to the town of San Antonio, known for its wood carving. We wandered through the market there, and in and out of shops selling wood crafts and furniture. Carmen and Carlos took us to a great place for lunch -- one plate for five people of fritada, (fried pork,) pozole, fried corn (there's a name for this,) potatoes, fried plantain and avocado.
Late in the afternoon, Carmen took Helen and me to Las Cascadas de Pechuge, a waterfall on the outskirts of Otavalo. This place is considered sacred to many of the indigenous people. Walking along the shady cobblestone path in the company of our Quichua friend was a unique privilege. The path brought us to this misty and mystical cascade.
On the way back to Otavalo from Chachimbiro, Carlos treated us to ice cream in Ibarra and Helen got to try whirling some blackberry sorbet in a copper tub!
Today, Saturday, was packed from start to finish. Saturday is the Big Market Day in Otavalo. We started at the animal market, early, before breakfast. As we approached the market, many people were already finished shopping and were pressing towards us toward their vehicles. A thousand photographs screamed to be taken--people dragging squealing pigs on leashes, a little boy corralling a bunch of piglets, a woman with a crate of live chickens, other women holding three or four chickens upside-down by the feet. Helen got some great shots of some animals, but alas, I couldn't bring myself to take a single photo! You'll just have to imagine the crush of hundreds and hundreds of people buying and selling farm animals, the cacophony of screaming animals, shouting people. Very intense. We walked along the periphery, sidestepping the pigs and the poop and the vehicles, until the thought of coffee and eggs lured us away.
I wanted so much to show you the people, the Quichua people in their beautiful garb, some of the older women so tiny they would make my cousin, Millie, look tall. But they usually hate having their picture taken and often refuse when we ask permission. And those big European tourists with giant cameras dangling from their necks... Were they planning to ask permission when they entered the market?
The remainder of the day brought surprise after surprise. Carlos and Carmen drove us back up to Ibarra --thirty minutes each way -- so we could buy our bus tickets to Ambato. On the way back they took a back road through sweet indigenous villages to the town of San Antonio, known for its wood carving. We wandered through the market there, and in and out of shops selling wood crafts and furniture. Carmen and Carlos took us to a great place for lunch -- one plate for five people of fritada, (fried pork,) pozole, fried corn (there's a name for this,) potatoes, fried plantain and avocado.
Back home, Sara had hot turkey soup waiting for us -- the perfect ending to a lovely week in Otavalo.
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| Carmen drove all the way to Ibarra and back. |
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| Helen (in purple) and Carmen at Las Cascadas de Peguche |
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| Las Cascadas de Peguche |
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| Carmen at the market in San Antonio |
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| Market vendor in Otavalo with Colombian customer |
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| Helen, admiring the skill of the helado-maker in Ibarra. In another moment, the young man handed the spoon to Helen and asked her to give it a try. |
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| Sara, buying a little something for her baby granddaughter. |
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| Beautiful Carmen in San Antonio market |
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