Saturday, December 1, 2012
Photos from Parque Nacional Cajas
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| Kids in a Karate class right where we stepped off the bus near the entrance to the park. |
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| Laguna Toreadora, elevation about 13,000 feet |
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| A little waterfall above the lake |
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| Sara and Helen, quite cold, waiting for a bus to take us back to Cuenca. In less than a minute, we accepted a ride from a stranger in his car. It was perfectly OK. |
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| No kidding! At above 13,000 feet, my coronary arteries were already calling my attention; I took a somewhat shorter path than Helen and Sara and took it REAL SLOW. |
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| Sara and Helen on the hiking trail. Brrrr..... gloves would have been nice. |
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| Vegetation at the high elevation fascinated us. |
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| Photo doesn't give any indication of the scale. These flowers are teeny tiny: the wee green rosettes covered the ground like closely mown grass. |
Friday, November 30, 2012
First Morning in Cuenca
Charlie Fox, good friend of the Findley family, met us at a the Cafe San Sebas this morning! After a most enjoyable time with Charlie and his friend, Rich, we strolled through the museum of modern art and along the banks of a river into the heart of this beautiful city.
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| Rio Tomebamba |
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| Helen with Charlie Fox, who now lives in Cuenca |
Thursday, November 29, 2012
On the bus again
Sara here, writing from a lovely hostel in Cuenca
Our day started getting to a cooperativa to catch the bus to Cuenca. There was a bustle around the bus door getting on and the young woman in front of me suddenly turned and got back off the bus jostling me when she did so. You guessed it, when I sat down, I discovered my little kangaroo pack unzipped, my coin purse missing. I only lost about $5 plus a copy of my passport but just behind where it had been, my cell phone sat intact. It was the only time in days I haven't had my vest zipped over my kangaroo. Grateful for the small loss and the reminder to wake up at bus stations and around the airport.
Then miles and miles of incredibly beautiful mountains, farms and terraced hillside. Just wonderful. No loud music, silly slapstick movie. Many quick stops to let on kids going home from distant schools, indigenous women in bright velvet skirts. Stop at a unisex bathroom where the men were using the urinal by the wash basin while I walked by to go into a stall.
For a while we were charmed by the clouds over the mountains, then clouds under us while we were above them. Then not charmed by driving for several hours through thick fog. We were in the first seats which help Phyllis with motion sickness but also meant that I got to see through the front window and watch the driver pass old rickety trucks in dense fog on blind curves. I made a decision years ago not to sweat this stuff so I listened to good music and we arrived in Cuenca. A new adventure.
Six word story. Robber, mountains, clouds, green, safe arrival.
Phyllis' note
Bus stop in a little town south of Riobamba. Two women, both in big red skirts, full and wide, with magenta shawls, finely featured chestnut faces, black bowler hats. Beautiful.
Our day started getting to a cooperativa to catch the bus to Cuenca. There was a bustle around the bus door getting on and the young woman in front of me suddenly turned and got back off the bus jostling me when she did so. You guessed it, when I sat down, I discovered my little kangaroo pack unzipped, my coin purse missing. I only lost about $5 plus a copy of my passport but just behind where it had been, my cell phone sat intact. It was the only time in days I haven't had my vest zipped over my kangaroo. Grateful for the small loss and the reminder to wake up at bus stations and around the airport.
Then miles and miles of incredibly beautiful mountains, farms and terraced hillside. Just wonderful. No loud music, silly slapstick movie. Many quick stops to let on kids going home from distant schools, indigenous women in bright velvet skirts. Stop at a unisex bathroom where the men were using the urinal by the wash basin while I walked by to go into a stall.
For a while we were charmed by the clouds over the mountains, then clouds under us while we were above them. Then not charmed by driving for several hours through thick fog. We were in the first seats which help Phyllis with motion sickness but also meant that I got to see through the front window and watch the driver pass old rickety trucks in dense fog on blind curves. I made a decision years ago not to sweat this stuff so I listened to good music and we arrived in Cuenca. A new adventure.
Six word story. Robber, mountains, clouds, green, safe arrival.
Phyllis' note
Bus stop in a little town south of Riobamba. Two women, both in big red skirts, full and wide, with magenta shawls, finely featured chestnut faces, black bowler hats. Beautiful.
Baños
Sara's note:
In 2004 I had the privilege of working with Veronica Vega when Access Community Health Center opened a new dental clinic. Veronica and I stayed in touch when I retired. As I was getting ready for this trip, I asked about visiting her mother, Delia, in Baños. This was the precedent to a day that was totally a gift from a most hospitable family.
Phyllis' note:
Wednesday -- We took a bus to Baños today. Baños is on the road to Puyo and is considered the Gateway to the Amazon. The hour-long bus ride gave us a phenomenal view of the lush green mountains and of the volcano Tungurahua, which emerged briefly from its cloud cover just for us. The cost of this phenomenal ride? 80 cents each!
Tungurahua erupted five years ago and is still active; we were surprised to learn that Peace Corps places Baños off limits for the volunteers; they're not even allowed to visit the town because of the possibility that Tungurahua might blow again.
If it weren't for the tourists, one might say that Baños is paradise. The temperature is short-sleeve-perfect, a blessed breeze wafts through the lanes, the vistas of green mountains hover beyond every house and shop. People come here to ride bikes and to enjoy the hot springs. Outfitters abound, ready to set you up with wet suits -- we can't imagine for what -- or bikes or a jungle tour.
We came here to visit the family of a former co-worker of Sara's, Veronica Vega, who lives in Madison, WI. Veronica's mother and brother still live in Baños, and they rolled out the red carpet for us.
Breakfast! And then a trip to a waterfall, complete with hair-raising cable-car ride. Helen and Sara stepped into the cable car, together with our host, Julio Vega. Off they went, careening over a deep ravine with a river far below. Teenagers chose to take a parallel route on a "Canopy", flying like solo birds on a cable above the river. Gives me shivers.
And then a drive through several mountain tunnels to the beginning of a long hike up to another waterfall. Such exquisite beauty!
Back at the house of Veronica's brother, Julio, an architect, we were treated to a sumptuous chicken dinner, after which we all went into town to check out Julio's office, the ruins of the church that fell in the earthquake of 1949, and the lovely park in the center of town. Julio pointed out a bar owned by a guy from Chicago, so of course I had to cross the street to say hello to to my homie, an old hippie with a gray beard and pony tail. We chatted about Wicker Park and Logan Square but I never did ask him why, in this lovely Ecuadorian town, he named his bar "The Stray Dog."
We capped off the day with a drive to a lookout point from which we could see the whole town of Banos far below. The school band was practicing and the sounds of the drummers drifted up to our high perch. It was a great day, our last one in this area of Ecuador. We are deeply grateful to the Vega family for their warmth and generosity. Julio was wonderful, giving us not only his entire day, but his marvelous singing! Prompted by our singing of two Granny songs, Julio sang several songs of his own making, including one about the tres abuelas who had come to visit his family in Banos!
Tomorrow -- an 8-hour bus ride to Cuenca!
In 2004 I had the privilege of working with Veronica Vega when Access Community Health Center opened a new dental clinic. Veronica and I stayed in touch when I retired. As I was getting ready for this trip, I asked about visiting her mother, Delia, in Baños. This was the precedent to a day that was totally a gift from a most hospitable family.
Phyllis' note:
Wednesday -- We took a bus to Baños today. Baños is on the road to Puyo and is considered the Gateway to the Amazon. The hour-long bus ride gave us a phenomenal view of the lush green mountains and of the volcano Tungurahua, which emerged briefly from its cloud cover just for us. The cost of this phenomenal ride? 80 cents each!
Tungurahua erupted five years ago and is still active; we were surprised to learn that Peace Corps places Baños off limits for the volunteers; they're not even allowed to visit the town because of the possibility that Tungurahua might blow again.
If it weren't for the tourists, one might say that Baños is paradise. The temperature is short-sleeve-perfect, a blessed breeze wafts through the lanes, the vistas of green mountains hover beyond every house and shop. People come here to ride bikes and to enjoy the hot springs. Outfitters abound, ready to set you up with wet suits -- we can't imagine for what -- or bikes or a jungle tour.
We came here to visit the family of a former co-worker of Sara's, Veronica Vega, who lives in Madison, WI. Veronica's mother and brother still live in Baños, and they rolled out the red carpet for us.
Breakfast! And then a trip to a waterfall, complete with hair-raising cable-car ride. Helen and Sara stepped into the cable car, together with our host, Julio Vega. Off they went, careening over a deep ravine with a river far below. Teenagers chose to take a parallel route on a "Canopy", flying like solo birds on a cable above the river. Gives me shivers.
And then a drive through several mountain tunnels to the beginning of a long hike up to another waterfall. Such exquisite beauty!
Back at the house of Veronica's brother, Julio, an architect, we were treated to a sumptuous chicken dinner, after which we all went into town to check out Julio's office, the ruins of the church that fell in the earthquake of 1949, and the lovely park in the center of town. Julio pointed out a bar owned by a guy from Chicago, so of course I had to cross the street to say hello to to my homie, an old hippie with a gray beard and pony tail. We chatted about Wicker Park and Logan Square but I never did ask him why, in this lovely Ecuadorian town, he named his bar "The Stray Dog."
We capped off the day with a drive to a lookout point from which we could see the whole town of Banos far below. The school band was practicing and the sounds of the drummers drifted up to our high perch. It was a great day, our last one in this area of Ecuador. We are deeply grateful to the Vega family for their warmth and generosity. Julio was wonderful, giving us not only his entire day, but his marvelous singing! Prompted by our singing of two Granny songs, Julio sang several songs of his own making, including one about the tres abuelas who had come to visit his family in Banos!
Tomorrow -- an 8-hour bus ride to Cuenca!
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| Veronica's nephew, Wagner, in front of his father's office window |
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| Julio's lovely wife, Nely, who served us a phenomenal chicken dinner. She planted the bouganvilla five years ago. |
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| Sara on the swinging bridge over a river near the waterfalls |
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| Julio, Helen and Sara looking out over Baños |
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| Phyllis, Sara and Helen far above Baños |
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| Baños from the lookout perch |
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| Julio, Sara and Helen about to sail off above the ravine |
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| Sara and Helen at the waterfall |
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| A very happy Sara! |
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| Veronica's niece, Nicole, with Helen's reflection |
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| Julio, Nely, Helen, Sara, and Delia Silva |
Birthday Dinner at La Roka Plaza
Tuesday night -- Fabulous dinner at the hotel raises the bar to staggering new heights. There are more photos in other cameras, and a wee movie, too, of Helen's steak being set aflame. Great fun set in elegance and warmed by friendship. I end this day knowing that I am, on several planes, a most fortunate woman.
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Lunch with Rachael Bowers-Sword
Today we had pizza with Rachael Bowers-Sword, Peace Corps Volunteer here in Ambato and daughter of Helen´s friend in Madison, Sally Bowers. Two returned Peace Corps Volunteers and one very busy current volunteer! It was such fun to talk with her and hear all about her activities, her life here and her perspective on Ambato. Enjoy the photos. We enjoyed good wood-fired oven pizza!
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